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Kalamkari Block Printing - Art You Wear

Writer's picture: JAANAKI GARMENTSJAANAKI GARMENTS

For centuries the mesmerizing art of Kalamkari has been winning women's hearts worldwide. Kalamkari block printing evolved from this traditional Indian art form.




History of Kalamkari

'Kalam' being pen and 'kari' craftsmanship, the word literally meaning pen-worked, is a technique used to hand paint or hand block cotton textile. Though it is difficult to trace its exact origin, artisans in the state of Andhra Pradesh have spent generations perfecting this technique.

Kalamkari is inextricably entwined with Indian mythology and iconography. Fabric or scrolls bearing illustrations of scenes from Bhagavata, Ramayana, and Mahabharata were used to decorate chariots and hung on the walls of temples, similar to the Buddhist Thangkas.

The two styles of Kalamkari in India are Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam styles. While the Srikalahasti style is mainly inspired by Indian mythology, Machilipatnam uses hand blocks carved with designs. Over the centuries, artisans from other regions of India too began to experiment with this technique, and their designs display regional influences.


Persian Kalamkari

Kalamkari flourished under the patronage of the Mughals and the Golconda sultanate, which explains the influence of Persian art on the art form.

Iran has been using the Kalamkari technique on fabrics for hundreds of years. The trade of textiles adorned with colourful sketches between Persia and Machilipatnam roots back centuries.

Techniques used and procedures followed in Persian Kalamkari are essentially the same as in India, except for iconography. Persian Kalamkari art predominantly uses floral motifs with a central lotus. The Tree of Life, a most popular Kalamkari motif, can also be seen in Persian Kalamkari.


How is Kalamkari Block Printing done?

Kalamkari block printing from start to finish is a labour-intensive process that takes many days and more than twenty steps to perfect. Yet it is worth the pain; the steadfast and elegant hues make the images come alive and capture the intricacies in all their splendor.

Kalamkari is the true celebration of India's cultural tradition.

As the first step, the cotton cloth is steeped in buffalo milk to smoothen the texture and sun-dried. Crushed myrobalan nuts in the mixture help remove the stench of milk. Also, myrobalan helps stabilize the hues.

The earthy beauty of Kalamkari owes it to natural dyes and brushes. For hand painting, artists first sketch the figures with charcoal and fill them with colours, using pointed bamboo, date palm sticks, etc. Block printing which evolved from painting, is done with the help of wooden blocks with elaborate carvings. Even on block printed fabrics, pens are used for fine details and also to add specific colours.

Traditionally pigments like iron for black, indigo for blue, pomegranate and pomegranate shells for green and yellow, tree barks for brown, alizarin for red, orange, pink, and so on, and various other minerals, roots, leaves, and flowers are used to prepare the dyes. It is these natural materials that impart folksy beauty to Kalamkari.

The cloth is then washed and air dried to stabilize the colours.

Nowadays, digital printing has made Kalamkari designs cheaper and more accessible. They are available in the markets at affordable prices, not only in cotton but in fabrics like silk and even synthetic fabrics like polyester.

Is Kalamkari Block Printing dying?

Kalamkari is timeless, though its demand might have risen and fallen over the centuries. When the introduction of modern machinery almost caused the extinction of this art form, it was social reformer Kamaladevi Chattopadhyay who played a vital role in reviving it. The fashion world also rallied to save the industry on the verge of collapse and help its artisans.

However, today there is a growing demand by an eco-conscious generation for everything natural. Kalamkari being an eco-friendly fabric that uses natural ingredients, appeals to the sensibilities of today's youth.

Klum has handpicked an exquisite collection of genuine Kalamkari creations for today's woman that finely balances ethnic and modern; a must-add to her wardrobe.

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